A common problem that those who sew on Burda patterns face is an insufficient size range and, accordingly, the lack of the right size for a particular model.
We present a simple and accurate method by which it is easy to increase or decrease the pattern by 1-2 sizes independently.
For example, take the pattern of dress model 114 from Burda 5/2018. The size range of the dress pattern is 36−44. Reduce it to the 34th size.
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Let’s remake the detail of the bodice 22 and show on it how to make the necessary changes.
Instead of tracing paper, polyethylene was used in the master class. To transfer the contours of the pattern - felt-tip pens.
Step 1. We retake part 22 from the pattern sheet for size 36
The direction of the shared thread is also re-shootable, it is the same for all sizes.
Step 2. Draw a barrel for size 34
To do this, we combine the line of the barrel, revised for the 36th size, with the line of the barrel for the 38th size on the sheet of patterns.
We retake the line of the 36th size and we get the barrel of the 34th.In the corners we combine the corner of the previously retrieved 36th with the corner of the 38th size and again translate the 36th.
To translate the label, combine the label of the 36th with the label of the 38th and again translate the label of the 36th.
How to lengthen a pattern
Step 3. Armhole
The armhole is complicated in that its line is located at an unequal distance from the previous size, therefore, as a rule, it is impossible to absolutely precisely match the armhole areas of the 36th size with the 38th.
We start from the corner. We combine the corner and such a section of the armhole, which is possible to accurately combine the drawn 36th size and 38th lines on the sheet of patterns, and translate this piece. Then move on to the next section.
At the end, adjust the upper corner.
Step 4. Relief line
This step must be performed in the same way as for the armhole line - in sections starting from the corner.
Part 22 for size 34 is ready!
Combining the previously retrieved 36th size (black lines) with the 36th size on the pattern sheet, we can make sure that the 34th size we received (blue lines) is at exactly the same distance from the 36th as the other sizes from friend.
Cut along the oblique: how to change the direction of the lobar
How to Enlarge Burda Pattern
You need to act in a similar way, but in the opposite direction. Suppose you want to get the 44th of the 42nd. Reshoot the 42nd, then combine it with the lines of the 40th and translate the lines of the 42nd again. As a result, you get the 44th.
How to reduce or increase the Burda pattern immediately in two sizes
If we want to get the 32nd of the 36th, then combine the captured lines of the 36th with the lines of the 40th and translate the lines of the 36th again. We get the 32nd.
The main principle is to draw lines of a new size only when the translated line of the 36th is exactly aligned with the line of the 40th.If there is no exact alignment, it is necessary to divide the line into sections and adjust them sequentially.
Important!
This method works if the pattern has the same pitch between the sizes. Please note that the step of ordinary patterns differs from the step of patterns of sizes plus - in the first case, between the sizes of the circumference of the chest, waist and hips 4 cm, in the second - 6 cm. Therefore, if you want to convert the plus size to the normal size, this method may not work due to step difference.
Is all this complicated?
It may look like this, but this is the most accurate way to get a pattern 1-2 sizes larger or smaller. In this master class, not the simplest part is intentionally used - the bodice part with curved lines, since it is much more difficult to correct them than parts with straight lines. In total, you will spend no more than 30 minutes on reducing or increasing all the details of the pattern. Agree, a small "price" for "I really want this dress, but in the magazine again there is no my size!"
All a great sewing!
The author of the master class and photo: Olga (Olga)
Olya learned to sew at school at work lessons. In the future, the role of a sewing teacher was assigned to the magazine Burda, when he became available to a wide range and appeared on the market.
Material prepared by: Julia Dekanova
